Bomber jacket, pattern №860

Use the Test Square to adjust the print scale! A test square for checking the A4 scale is located on the first sheet of the A4 pattern file. The test square for checking the plotter scale is located on the pattern sheet in the plotter file.

Bomber jacket pattern. IIt’s a straight silhouette lower-the-waistline length bomber jacket, the garment comes with an insulation fabric and a lining. Front has a center open ended zipper closure, inner windproof placket, side set-in welt pockets with stitched on ends, left part of front has a set-in vertical zipper pocket. Back has center seam and horizontal yoke. The hem edge of the garment is finished with a waistband and inset (it’s stitched to the leading edge) from the main fabric. Ends of the collar stand reach the center front. The collar stand, cuffs and the waistband are made from the knitted fabric. There is a bust dart in the model’s construction, it was partly transferred into the armhole and partly into the hem edge.

The pattern comes with two options of the sleeve design:

Option №1: Shirt type set-in long sleeves with three seams, underarm part of sleeve is volume and in the shape of a pear, front and elbow edges are slightly gathered. Hem edge of the sleeve is finished with a cuff. There is a patch cargo pocket on the upside part of the right sleeve, cargo pocket comes with side parts and a vertical zipper closure.

Option №2: Shirt type set-in long sleeves with one seam, hem edge is finished with a cuff. There is a patch cargo pocket on the upside part of the right sleeve, cargo pocket comes with side parts and a vertical zipper closure. The armhole line is lowered for 4 cm from the shoulder point.

Eases added to a pattern, cm:  *Constructive ease (Ec)*: Bust-line: 31,0 см, Waist: 43,5 см, Shoulders: 16,0 см

*Ease of package (Ep)*: Bust-line: 5,0 см; Waist-line: 5,0 см; Shoulders:  5,0 см.

*Ease of freedom (Ef): (Pay attention to this increase in order to estimate the garment volume!): Bust-line: 126,0 см; Waist-line: 38,5 см;  Shoulders:  11,0 см.

*Constructive ease (Ec) – an integral part of a constructive segment that increases or decreases the size attribute, takes into account the thickness of the garment package, the freedom between the body and clothing, fashion direction, silhouette, physiological, hygienic and dynamic requirements, and is always included in the size parameters of the finished garment.

*Ease of package (Ep) – this value takes into account the thickness of all layers of clothes material worn on a person, which consists of ease for inner package, taking into account the underlying layers at designing clothes, and an ease of the outer package (package for designing garment).

*Ec = Ep + Ef

Finished back length along the center back seam, cm: 38 size: 39,7-45,6, 40 size: 39,9-45,8, 42 size: 40,1-46,0, 44 size: 40,3-46,2, 46 size: 40,5-46,4, 48 size: 40,7-46,6,  50 size: 40,9-46,8, 52 size: 41,1-47,0, 54 size: 41,3-47,2, 56 size: 41,5-47,4.

Fabric suggestion: We recommend to use thin rain wear fabrics, jacket fabrics, rain wear fabrics with a hydrophilic membrane. Use the 100 g/m2 ISOSOFT as an insulate material, it’s a new-generation synthetical insulator with a protection layer on both sides. Use a rib knit or kashkorse for cuffs, waistband and collar or but ready made rib details. Use viscose or silk for the lining details.

Option 1: sleeves with three seams, with pleating:

Amount of main fabrics, wide 140 cm: 38 size: 1,15-1,25м; 40 size: 1,20-1,30м, 42 size: 1,20-1,35м; 44 size: 1,25-1,35м; 46 size: 1,25-1,40м, 48 size: 1,30-1,45м, 50 size: 1,35-1,45м; 52 size: 1,40-1,50м, 54 size: 1,40-1,55 м, 56 size: 1,45-1,55м.

Lining fabric, wide 140 cm: 38 size: 1,10-1,15м; 40,42 size: 1,10-1,20м; 44 size: 1,10-1,25м; 46,48 size: 1,15-1,25м, 50 size: 1,15-1,30м; 52 size: 1,45-1,60м, 52,54 size: 1,20-1,30 м, 56 size: 1,25-1,35м.

Insulation, wide 140см: 38 size: 1,05-1,15м; 40 size: 1,10-1,20м, 42,44 size: 1,15-1,25м; 46,48 size: 1,15-1,30м, 50 size: 1,20-1,35м; 52,54 size: 1,25-1,40 м, 56 size: 1,30-1,45м.

Option 2: sleeves with one seam: 

Amount of main fabrics, wide 140 cm: 38 size: 1,00-1,10м; 40 size: 1,05-1,15м, 42,44 size: 1,10-1,20м; 46 size: 1,10-1,25м, 48 size: 1,15-1,25м, 50 size: 1,20-1,30м; 52 size: 1,20-1,35м, 54 size: 1,25-1,35 м, 56 size: 1,25-1,40м.

Lining fabric, wide 140 cm: 38 size: 0,95-1,05м; 40,42 size: 1,00-1,10м; 44 size: 1,00-1,15м; 46 size: 1,05-1,15; 48,50 size: 1,10-1,20м; 52-56 size: 1,10-1,25м.

Insulation, wide 140см: 38 size: 0,90-0,95м; 40 size: 0,95-1,00м, 42 рsize: 1,00-1,10м; 44 size: 1,00-1,15; 46 size: 1,05-1,15м; 48 size: 1,05-1,20м, 50 size: 1,10-1,20м; 52,54 size: 1,10-1,25 м, 56 size: 1,15-1,30м.

Attention! Given exact fabric consumption can be used only when pattern details are placed on a fabric sheet close to each other. All pattern details should be arranged on an opened fabric sheet strictly on grain in one direction, each pattern piece must be cut out only once.

Pattern is given with seam allowances.

Degree of difficulty - "Advanced”

The photos shows a bomber jacket sewed at the GRASSER  for pattern №860

Model is wearing a size 42, height 170-176. Model parameters: Bust-line: 84,5см, waist-line: 64,5см, Hips: 86см, height 171 см.

The images also shows: blouse on pattern №859, trousers on pattern №861 , balaklava on pattern №865

In the gallery under the main photo and in the video below you can see a 3D visualization - this is how jacket will look in sizes 48 и 52.

Also there are detailed information of the necessary consumption of fabric, materials and accessories in the instruction.

• Multipurpose sewing machine;
  
• An iron with or without steam;
• Regular presser foot; Hinged cording foot;
• Wooden iron;
• Sleeve board;
• Ironing desk or console table;
• Hand needle for basting;
• Machine needles №80 for the main fabric;
• Machine needles №80 for the lining;
• Paper scissors; Scissors for textile cutting;
• Press for installing and press studs, depending on the diameter.

The pattern in your order will be in two print options:

1. For printing on A4/Letter. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4/Letter sheets, then glue the sheets, cut the pattern and you can sew!

A test square for checking the A4/Letter print scale is located on the first sheet of the pattern file.

2. For printing on a large format plotter. 

A test square for checking the plotter scale is located on the pattern sheet.