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Jacket, pattern №1065

Jacket, pattern №1065

Sizes:

size 38, height 152-158
size 38, height 158-164
size 38, height 164-170
size 40, height 152-158
size 40, height 158-164
size 40, height 164-170
size 40, height 170-176
size 40, height 176-182
size 42, height 152-158
size 42, height 158-164
size 42, height 164-170
size 42, height 170-176
size 42, height 176-182
size 44, height 152-158
size 44, height 158-164
size 44, height 164-170
size 44, height 170-176
size 44, height 176-182
size 46, height 152-158
size 46, height 158-164
size 46, height 164-170
size 46, height 170-176
size 46, height 176-182
size 48, height 152-158
size 48, height 158-164
size 48, height 164-170
size 48, height 170-176
size 48, height 176-182
size 50, height 152-158
size 50, height 158-164
size 50, height 164-170
size 50, height 170-176
size 50, height 176-182
size 52, height 152-158
size 52, height 158-164
size 52, height 164-170
size 52, height 170-176
size 52, height 176-182
size 54, height 152-158
size 54, height 158-164
size 54, height 164-170
size 54, height 170-176
size 54, height 176-182
size 56, height 152-158
size 56, height 158-164
size 56, height 164-170
size 56, height 170-176
size 56, height 176-182
-

Size:

Height:

152-158
158-164
164-170
170-176
176-182

$11

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Jacket pattern. A free volume jacket with a straight silhouette, and a mid-thigh length, is insulated and lined. The closure is a central zipper tape, it is finished with an internal underlap placket. The downside part of the front there is an inclined welt pocket with the stitched in ends. The shoulder line is lowered by 12.5-14.8 cm (depending on the garment size). There is a drawstring at the bottom line of the front and back to adjust the fit using the cord and stoppers. The cord is brought to the wrong side through the grommets, which are located in the seams. The sleeve is sewn in, long and one-seamed, with the internal knitted cuff. The round shaped neckline is finished with a high collar stand (Option 1) or with a hood (Option 2). The hood is of moderate volume with the one-piece collar stand, and with a central part. There is a drawstring in the front edges of the hood to adjust the fit using the cord. The cord ends are brought to the right side through the grommets.

Eases added to a pattern, cm:

CONSTRUCTIVE EASE (EC)*:

Bust-line – 52,0 cm.

Hips-line – 50,0 cm.

Shoulders –36,0 cm.

Constructive ease consists of ease of package and ease of freedom. Constructive ease is for a garment’s outer volume, ease of freedom is for a garment’s inner volume.

EC = EP + EF

We used 300 g/m2 (200+100) density insulation material for our garment.

EASE OF PACKAGE WAS 5.0CM (EP)*: (may vary depending on a type of insulation material).

EASE OF FREEDOM (EF):

Bust-line – 47,0 cm.

Hips-line – 45,0 cm.

Shoulders –31,0 cm.

Garment Length Measurements, cm:

Size	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56
Finished back length along the center back	75,4-85,8	75,5-85,8	75,5-85,8	75,5-85,9	75,6-86,0	75,7-86,1	75,8-86,2	75,8-86,2	75,8-86,2	75,8-86,2
Finished sleeve length	52,1-60,0	52,4-60,0	52,6-60,2	52,8-60,4	53,0-60,7	53,2-60,9	53,4-61,1	53,6-61,3	54,0-61,6	54,1-61,8

Fabric suggestion:

Main fabric. For this model, we recommend using raincoat, jacket fabrics; raincoat fabrics with a membrane; raincoat, jacket fabrics with impregnation. You can use ready made quilted raincoat fabric for sewing this model.

Lining material. As a lining for membrane fabrics, we recommend using a lining fabric that is made of synthetic fibers, for raincoat and jacket fabrics and other fabrics - a lining fabric made of synthetic, mixed and natural fibers.

Finishing material. For the cuffs, we recommend using knitwear with a stretchability coefficient of 0.80 – 0.85, medium density or dense, for example, knit ribbed fabrics, and ready-made cuffs and waistbands.

Insulation. We recommend using synthetic insulation with a protection layer from each side, for example, ISOSOFT 34 200 and 100 gr/m2.

Interfacing materials. For better tailoring we recommend using a side booster with a non-adhesive density of 50 g/m2, a width of 90 cm.

Option 1. Jacket with a high collar stand

Size	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56
Main fabric, wide 140 cm	2,05-2,20	2,10-2,35	2,15-2,45	2,20-2,45	2,25-2,50	2,30-2,55	2,35-2,60	2,35-2,65	2,40-2,70	2,45-2,70
Insulation material 100 g/m2; width 150 cm	0,30							0,35

Option 2. Jacket with a hood

Size	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56
Main fabric, wide 140 cm	2,35-2,45	2,40-2,60	2,45-2,65	2,50-2,75	2,55-2,80	2,60-2,85	2,65-2,90	2,70-2,95	2,75-3,05	2,80-3,05
Insulation material 100 g/m2; width 150 cm	0,60
The rubber cord, wide 25 mm	0,80-0,85

FOR BOTH OPTIONS

Size	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56
Lining fabric, wide 140 cm	1,65-1,70	1,65-1,85	1,70-1,85	1,70-1,90	1,75-1,95	1,75-2,10	1,80-2,10	1,90-2,20	1,95-2,25	2,00-2,25
Insulation material 300 g/m2; width 150 cm	1,75-1,85	1,75-1,95	1,75-2,20	1,95-2,30	2,05-2,30	2,05-2,30	2,05-2,35	2,10-2,35	2,10-2,35	2,10-2,35
Finishing fabric (kashkorse, ribana), wide 100 cm	0,25
Non-fusible facing straightener (density 50 gr/m2; width 90 cm)	1,30				1,35		1,40		1,45
Reps tape with a width of 20 mm	0,9-1,0	0,9-1,0	0,9-1,0	0,9-1,0	0,9-1,0	0,9-1,0	0,9-1,05	0,9-1,05	0,9-1,05	0,9-1,05
The rubber cord, wide 2,5 mm	1,65	1,7	1,75	1,8	1,85	1,9	1,95	2,0	2,05	2,1

Attention! Given exact fabric consumption can be used only when pattern details are placed on a fabric sheet close to each other. All pattern details should be arranged on an opened fabric sheet strictly on grain in one direction, each pattern piece must be cut out only once.

Garment accessories

1. Detachable zipper of type 5 - 1 pcs, with the length of

- 85.0 cm (for sizes 38-48 of the height 152-158);

- 90.0 cm (for sizes 50-56 of the height 152-158); (for sizes 38-56 of the height 158-164); (for sizes 38-48 of the height 164-170);

- 95.0 cm (for sizes 50-56 of the height 164-170); (for sizes 38-56 of the height 170-176); (for sizes 40-48 of the height 176-182);

- 100.0 cm (for sizes 50-56 of the height 176-182);

2. Grommets (with the diameter of 4 mm) - 4 pcs. (Option 1)

3. Grommets (with the diameter of 4 mm) - 8 pcs. (Option 2).

4. Plastic stopper with 2 holes - 2 pcs. (Option 1);

5. Plastic stopper with 2 holes - 4 pcs. (Option 2).

Pattern is given with seam allowances.

Detailed sewing instruction with step-by-step photos of sewing is attached to the pattern in the kit.

Degree of difficulty - "Advanced".

The photos shows a jacket sewed at the GRASSER for pattern №1065.

Model is wearing a size 42. Model parameters: Model parameters: Bust-line: 81 cm, Waist-line: 61 cm, Hips: 91 cm, Height: 173 cm.

The photo also shows: trousers on pattern №875, sweater on pattern №961.

For sewing you will need the following equipment:

1. Multipurpose sewing machine;
2. An iron with or without steam;
3. Regular presser foot;
4. Hinged cording foot;
5. Wooden iron;
6. Ironing desk or console table;
7. Hand needle for basting;
8. Machine needles Microtex №75 - for main fabric;
9. Machine needles №80- for lining fabric;
10. Paper scissors;
11. Scissors for textile cutting;
12. Snap press and eyelets setting die. The size depends on the diameter of the buttons.

The pattern in your order will be in two print options:

1. For printing on A4/Letter. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4/Letter sheets, then glue the sheets, cut the pattern and you can sew!

A test square for checking the A4/Letter print scale is located on the first sheet of the pattern file.

2. For printing on a large format plotter.

A test square for checking the plotter scale is located on the pattern sheet.

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