Jacket, pattern №956

Sizes:

  • size 38, height 152-158
  • size 38, height 158-164
  • size 38, height 164-170
  • size 40, height 152-158
  • size 40, height 158-164
  • size 40, height 164-170
  • size 40, height 170-176
  • size 40, height 176-182
  • size 42, height 152-158
  • size 42, height 158-164
  • size 42, height 164-170
  • size 42, height 170-176
  • size 42, height 176-182
  • size 44, height 152-158
  • size 44, height 158-164
  • size 44, height 164-170
  • size 44, height 170-176
  • size 44, height 176-182
  • size 46, height 152-158
  • size 46, height 158-164
  • size 46, height 164-170
  • size 46, height 170-176
  • size 46, height 176-182
  • size 48, height 152-158
  • size 48, height 158-164
  • size 48, height 164-170
  • size 48, height 170-176
  • size 48, height 176-182
  • size 50, height 152-158
  • size 50, height 158-164
  • size 50, height 164-170
  • size 50, height 170-176
  • size 50, height 176-182
  • size 52, height 152-158
  • size 52, height 158-164
  • size 52, height 164-170
  • size 52, height 170-176
  • size 52, height 176-182
  • size 54, height 152-158
  • size 54, height 158-164
  • size 54, height 164-170
  • size 54, height 170-176
  • size 54, height 176-182
  • size 56, height 152-158
  • size 56, height 158-164
  • size 56, height 164-170
  • size 56, height 170-176
  • size 56, height 176-182
  • size 58, height 152-158
  • size 58, height 158-164
  • size 58, height 164-170
  • size 58, height 170-176
  • size 58, height 176-182
  • size 60, height 158-164
  • size 60, height 164-170
  • size 60, height 170-176
  • size 60, height 176-182
  • size 62, height 158-164
  • size 62, height 164-170
  • size 62, height 170-176
  • size 62, height 176-182
  • -

Size:

  • 38
  • 40
  • 42
  • 44
  • 46
  • 48
  • 50
  • 52
  • 54
  • 56
  • 58
  • 60
  • 62

Height:

  • 152-158
  • 158-164
  • 164-170
  • 170-176
  • 176-182
$11

After payment, links for downloads of patterns are sent to your e-mail. For registered users download links are also available in personal account in the section "My Orders".

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Jacket pattern. Oversized loose bomber jacket, straight silhouette, below hip line length, lined and insulated. The centre closure features a zipper with underlap. The front has jetted pockets with a flap. The left front features a chest welt jetted pocket with a zipper. The raglan sleeve has an upper seam and a lower seam. The upper sleeve seam has a gathering which starts 10 cm below the shoulder point. The lower sleeve seam is gathered as well. The neckline is round, finished with a stand collar.

The hem of the garment is finished with an attached waistband 7.0 cm wide.

The hem of the sleeve is finished with an attached cuff 7.0 cm wide.


Eases added to a pattern, cm:

Constructive ease (Ec)*:

Bust-line – 61,0 cm
Hips-line – 53,2 cm
Shoulders–36 ,0 cm

Total ease consists of design ease and wearing ease. Total ease is for a garment’s outer volume, wearing ease is for a garment’s inner volume.

Total ease = design ease + wearing ease.

We used 150 g/m2 density insulation material for our garment. Design ease was 5,0 cm (may vary depending on a type of insulation material).

Ease of freedom (Ef):

Bust-line– 56,0 cm
Hips-line – 48,2 cm
Shoulders– 31,0 cm
Garment Length Measurements, cm

Finished back length along the center back seam (from neckline to waistband): size 38: 68,9-74,0, size 40: 69,0-79,5, size 42: 69,1-79,6, size 44: 69,2-79,7, size 46: 69,3-79,8, size 48: 69,4-79,9, size 50: 69,5-80,0, size 52: 69,6-80,1, size 54: 69,7-80,2, size 56: 69,8-80,3, size 58: 69,9-80,4, size 60: 72,8-80,5, size 62: 73,3-81,0.

Finished sleeve length (from neckline to cuff): size 38: 64,6-69,9, size 40: 65,0-73,5, size 42: 65,3-73,9, size 44: 65,7-74,2, size 46: 66,0-74,5, size 48: 66,4-74,8, size 50: 66,7-75,2, size 52: 67,1-75,6, size 54: 67,4-75,9, size 56: 67,8-76,1, size 58: 68,1-76,4, size 60: 70,4-76,7, size 62: 70,7-77,0.


Fabric suggestion: We recommend to use for this model soft average density thin rain wear and coat fabrics; rain wear fabrics with membrane; rain wear. Use viscose or silk as for membrane materials, use synthetic, natural or blended fabrics for rain wear and jacket fabrics.

Use as a lining the fabrics with plasticity and density characteristics suitable to the shell material, made of natural, synthetic or blended fibre.

Use the 100-150 g/m2 ISOSOFT 34 as an insulate material, it’s a new-generation synthetic insulator with a protection layer on both sides.

Use a rib knit or kashkorse for cuffs, waistband and collar or ready made rib details.

Interfacing materials:

For better quality of sewing, we recommend to use the interfacing material. For example you may use 32 g/m2 density 140 cm, width woven interfacing. The density of the interfacing material depends on the main fabric density.

For better sewing quality, we recommend strengthening some details with a non-fusible facing straightener of 50 g/ m2 and with the width of 90 cm.

Amount of Fabrics (in metres):

Main fabric, wide 140 cm: size 38: 2,05-2,20, size 40: 2,10-2,35, size 42: 2,15-2,40, size 44: 2,15-2,45, size 46: 2,20-2,45, size 48: 2,25-2,55, size 50: 2,30-2,60, size 52: 2,30-2,65, size 54-56: 2,40-2,70, size 58: 2,45-2,75, size 60: 2,55-2,75, size 62: 2,55-2,80.

Finishing fabric, wide 100 cm (rib-knit fabric): size 38-44: 0,40, size 46: 0,45, size 48-62: 0,50.

Lining fabric, wide 140 cm: size 38: 1,45-1,55, size 40: 1,50-1,65, size 42: 1,70-1,80, size 44: 1,75-1,95, size 46: 1,80-2,00, size 48: 1,85-2,05, size 50: 1,85-2,10, size 52: 1,90-2,10, size 54: 1,95-2,15, size 56: 1,95-2,20, size 58: 2,00-2,20, size 60: 2,05-2,25, size 62: 2,10-2,30.

Interfacing (density 34 g/m2; width 150 cm): size 38: 0,80, size 40- 42: 0,85, size 44-52: 0,90, size 54-62: 0,95.

Non-fusible facing straightener of 50 g/m2 and with the width of 90 cm: size 38-62: 0,10.

Insulation material ISOSOFT 34 100-150g/m2, wide 140 cm: size 38: 1,90-2,05, size 40: 1,95-2,20, size 42: 1,95-2,25, size 44-46: 2,00-2,30, size 48: 2,05-2,35, size 50-52: 2,10-2,40, size 54- 56: 2,20-2,50, size 58: 2,25-2,50, size 60: 2,35-2,55, size 62: 2,40-2,65.

Reps ribbon with a width of 20 mm: size 38: 0,80, size 40- 42: 0,85, size 44-56: 0,90, size 58-62: 0,95.

Attention! Given exact fabric consumption can be used only when pattern details are placed on a fabric sheet close to each other. All pattern details should be arranged on an opened fabric sheet strictly on grain in one direction, each pattern piece must be cut out only once.

Garment accessories:

1. Open-end zipper № 5, long 70-90 сm – 1 pcs. (for front)
2. Closed-end zipper №5, long 18 сm – 1 pcs. (for breast pocket)
3. Press-studs, diameter 15 mm – 2pcs.


Pattern is given with seam allowances.

Detailed sewing instruction with step-by-step photos of sewing is attached to the pattern in the kit.


Degree of difficulty - "Advanced”.
The photos shows a jacket sewed at the GRASSER  for pattern №956.

Model is wearing a size 42, height 170-176. Model parameters: Bust-line: 86 cm, waist-line: 61 cm, Hips: 89,5 cm, Height: 176 cm.
The images also shows: dress on pattern №911


For sewing you will need the following equipment: 
  • Multipurpose sewing machine;
  • An iron with or without steam;
  • Regular presser foot, Hinged cording foot;
  • Teflon or walking foot;
  • Wooden iron;
  • Ironing desk or console table;
  • Hand needle for basting;
  • Machine needles Microtex №70-80 for the main fabric;
  • Machine needles №70 for the lining;
  • Paper scissors; Scissors for textile cutting;
  • Eyelet press for installing press studs, depending on the diameter.

The pattern in your order will be in two print options:

1. For printing on A4/Letter. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4/Letter sheets, then glue the sheets, cut the pattern and you can sew!

A test square for checking the A4/Letter print scale is located on the first sheet of the pattern file.


2. For printing on a large format plotter. 

A test square for checking the plotter scale is located on the pattern sheet.

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