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Jacket pattern. A free volume jacket with a straight silhouette, and a mid-thigh length, is insulated and lined, and has a hood. The closure is a central zipper tape, it is finished with an internal and external windproof plackets. The external placket is stitched on with a hidden clasp with 5 button hotels and 5 buttons. The shoulder line is lowered by 9.0-11.0 cm (depending on the garment size). The upper part of the front has a vertical welt pocket with the stitched in ends. The lower part of the front has a patch bellows pockets with a flap. There is a snap closure on the internal side of the flap. The back is with a center seam and an attached yoke. There is a drawstring at the waist and at the bottom of the front and back to adjust the fit using the cord and stoppers. The cord is brought to the right side through the grommets. The sleeves are sewn in, and of the full length, with the bottom and elbow seams and the internal knitted cuff. The round shaped neckline is finished with a hood. The hood is of moderate volume, with a central part and a wide lining along the front edge. There is a strap on the central part of the hood to adjust the volume.Eases added to a pattern, cm: CONSTRUCTIVE EASE (EC)*:
Constructive ease consists of ease of package and ease of freedom. Constructive ease is for a garment’s outer volume, ease of freedom is for a garment’s inner volume.
EC = EP + EF
We used 200 g/m2 density insulation material for our garment.
EASE OF PACKAGE WAS 5.0CM (EP)*:
EASE OF FREEDOM (EF): (may vary depending on a type of insulation material).
Finished back length along the center back seam
Finished sleeve length
Fabric suggestion: Main fabric. For this model, we recommend using raincoat, jacket fabrics; raincoat fabrics with a membrane; raincoat, jacket fabrics with impregnation.
Lining material. As a lining for membrane fabrics, we recommend using a lining fabric that is made of synthetic fibers, for raincoat and jacket fabrics - a lining fabric made of synthetic, mixed and natural fibers.
Insulation. To insulate the garment, we recommend using synthetic insulation materials of a new generation with a protective layer on both sides, for example, ISOSOFT 34 200 g/m2 and 100 g/m2.
Interfacing materials. For better quality of sewing, we recommend to use the interfacing material. For example, you may use 34 g/m2 density 150 cm, width woven interfacing. The density of the interfacing material depends on the main fabric density. For better tailoring we recommend using a side booster with a non-adhesive density of 50 g/m2, a width of 90 cm.
Amount of Fabrics (in metres):
Main fabric, wide 140 cm
Lining fabric, wide 140 cm
Insulation material (200 g/m2; width 140 cm)
Insulation material (100 g/m2; width 140 cm)
Rib knit fabric (kashkorse or ribana), wide 100 cm
Non-fusible facing straightener of 50 g/m2 and with the width of 90 cm
Interfacing (density 34 g/m2; width 150 cm)
Elastic band, 3,5 cm wide
Flat cord, 0,7-1,0 cm wide
Attention! Given exact fabric consumption can be used only when pattern details are placed on a fabric sheet close to each other. All pattern details should be arranged on an opened fabric sheet strictly on grain in one direction, each pattern piece must be cut out only once. Notions:
1. Button with the diameter of 25 mm - 5 pcs. 2. Button (under button) with the diameter of 10 mm - 5 pcs. 3. Snap with the diameter of 12.5 mm - 4 pcs. 4. Detachable zipper of type 5 and with the length of 85 cm - 1 pcs. 5. Grommets with the diameter of 9 mm - 4 pcs. 6. Plastic stopper with 1 hole - 4 pcs. 7. Half-ring/Frame with the internal width of 25 mm - 2 pcs. 8. Frame-regulator with the internal width of 35 mm - 2 pcs. 9. Frame with the internal width of 35 mm - 2 pcs.Pattern is given with seam allowances.
Detailed sewing instruction with step-by-step photos of sewing is attached to the pattern in the kit.
Degree of difficulty - «Advanced».
The photos shows a jacket sewed at the GRASSER for pattern №1067.
Model is wearing a size 56. Model parameters: Model parameters: Bust-line: 103 cm, Waist-line: 82 cm, Hips: 102 cm, Height: 188 cm.The photo also shows: sweaterpattern №813, trousers pattern №1054.
Tools and equipment:
1. Multipurpose sewing machine; 2. An iron without steam; 3. Regular presser foot; 4. Wooden iron; 5. Ironing desk or console table; 6. Hand needle for basting; 7. Machine needles MICROTEX (extra sharp) №80 for the main fabric; 8. Machine needles №80-90 for the lining; 9. Paper scissors; 10. Scissors for textile cutting; 11. Snaps pressing machine to install accessories grommets and press studs, depending on the diameter.
The pattern in your order will be in two print options:
1. For printing on A4/Letter. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4/Letter sheets, then glue the sheets, cut the pattern and you can sew!
A test square for checking the A4/Letter print scale is located on the first sheet of the pattern file.
2. For printing on a large format plotter.
A test square for checking the plotter scale is located on the pattern sheet.
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