Jacket, pattern №1233

A straight jacket below the hip line, moderate volume, with an English collar and a long belt.
Advanced level
Instructions with photo
Plotter 900 + А4/Letter

Sizes:

  • size 38, height 152-158
  • size 38, height 158-164
  • size 38, height 164-170
  • size 40, height 152-158
  • size 40, height 158-164
  • size 40, height 164-170
  • size 40, height 170-176
  • size 40, height 176-182
  • size 42, height 152-158
  • size 42, height 158-164
  • size 42, height 164-170
  • size 42, height 170-176
  • size 42, height 176-182
  • size 44, height 152-158
  • size 44, height 158-164
  • size 44, height 164-170
  • size 44, height 170-176
  • size 44, height 176-182
  • size 46, height 152-158
  • size 46, height 158-164
  • size 46, height 164-170
  • size 46, height 170-176
  • size 46, height 176-182
  • size 48, height 152-158
  • size 48, height 158-164
  • size 48, height 164-170
  • size 48, height 170-176
  • size 48, height 176-182
  • size 50, height 152-158
  • size 50, height 158-164
  • size 50, height 164-170
  • size 50, height 170-176
  • size 50, height 176-182
  • size 52, height 152-158
  • size 52, height 158-164
  • size 52, height 164-170
  • size 52, height 170-176
  • size 52, height 176-182
  • size 54, height 152-158
  • size 54, height 158-164
  • size 54, height 164-170
  • size 54, height 170-176
  • size 54, height 176-182
  • size 56, height 152-158
  • size 56, height 158-164
  • size 56, height 164-170
  • size 56, height 170-176
  • size 56, height 176-182
  • -

Size:

  • 38
  • 40
  • 42
  • 44
  • 46
  • 48
  • 50
  • 52
  • 54
  • 56

Height:

  • 152-158
  • 158-164
  • 164-170
  • 170-176
  • 176-182
$8.80
$11
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Questions

  • A moderate volume jacket with a straight silhouette, length below the thigh line, lined. The central side closure has 2 button loops and 2 buttons. There is no side seam, the side part is modelled. The front details are with two darts and pockets. The first dart is from the neckline of the front, located under the lapel. The second dart is formed by combining the breast dart with the waist one and ends with an undercut along the line of the pocket entrance. The pocket is welt with a lining and a flap. There is a chest pocket on the left side of the front. The pocket is with an inclined entrance, welt with ends stitched on. The back is with a center seam. There is a slit in the center seam of the back. The sleeve is sew-in, long, double-seam, with an open slit in the elbow seam. An English collar is with a cut-off stand. The jacket is complemented by a detachable belt.

    Model is wearing a size 42. Model parameters: Bust-line: 86 cm, Waist-line: 66 cm, Hips: 92 cm, Height: 172 cm.

  • Bust-line: 26,0 cm;
    Hips-line: 19,0 cm;
    Shoulders: 10,2 cm.
  • Size 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56
    Finished back length along the center back seam, cm 71,1-75,2 71,2-79,4 71,3-79,5 71,4-79,6 71,5-79,7 71,6-79,8 71,7-79,9 71,8-80,0 71,9-80,1 72,0-80,2
    Finished sleeve length, cm 56,9-60,7 57,0-64,6 57,1-64,7 57,2-64,8 57,3-64,9 57,4-65,0 57,5-65,1 57,6-65,2 57,7-65,3 57,8-65,4
  • Main fabric. For this model, we recommend using suit fabrics that can be wet-heat treated (in some areas of the garment, the fit and shrinkage of the edges are embedded). In terms of composition, these can be fabrics made of natural, synthetic or mixed fibers.

    Lining material. As a lining use the fabrics with density and plasticity suitable for the shell fabric, made out of natural, synthetic or blended fibers.

    Interfacing materials. For better quality of sewing, we recommend to use the interfacing material. For example, you may use 55 g/m2 and 33-39 g/m2 density 150 cm, width woven interfacing. The density of the interfacing material depends on the main fabric density. For better tailoring we recommend using a side booster with a non-adhesive density of 90 g/m2, a width of 90 cm.
  • The amount of fabric in meters.

    Size 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56
    Main fabric, wide 140 cm 1,85-1,90 1,85-2,00 1,95-2,05 1,95-2,15 2,00-2,15 2,05-2,25 2,05-2,30 2,15-2,30 2,20-2,40 2,25-2,40
    Lining fabric, wide 140 cm 1,20-1,25 1,25-1,45 1,30-1,45 1,35-1,50 1,35-1,55 1,40-1,55 1,40-1,55 1,40-1,55 1,45-1,60 1,45-1,60
                                    Fabric requirements for interfacing on fusing scheme #1
    Interfacing (density 55 g/m2, width 150 cm) 1,45-1,50 1,45-1,60 1,45-1,60 1,50-1,65 1,50-1,65 1,55-1,70 1,55-1,70 1,55-1,70 1,70-1,85 1,70-1,85
    Interfacing(density 33-39 g/m2, width 150 cm)                                                0,45
    Non-fusible facing straightener of  90 g/m2, width 90 cm)                                                0,35
    Bias fusible tape with reinforcement stitches 5,00-5,0 5,10-5,35 5,20-5,45 5,30-5,55 5,40-5,65 5,50-5,80 5,60-5,90 5,75-6,00 5,85-6,10 5,95-6,20
    Fusible on grain tape
    2,90-3,00 2,95-3,15 2,95-3,15 2,95-3,15 3,00-3,20 3,00-3,20 3,00-3,20 3,05-3,25 3,05-3,25 3,05-3,25

    Attention! If the fabric you choose has an unstable structure, is loose or mobile, then we suggest the following option for interfacing the garment.

                                            Fabric requirements for interfacing on fusing scheme #2
    Interfacing (density 55 g/m2, width 150 cm) 0,90-0,95 0,95-1,05 0,95-1,05 0,95-1,05 0,95-1,05 1,00-1,10 1,00-1,10 1,20-1,25 1,20-1,35 1,20-1,35
    Interfacing(density 33-39 g/m2, width 150 cm) 1,5-1,20 1,15-1,30 1,20-1,30 1,20-1,30 1,20-1,30 1,20-1,35 1,20-1,35 1,20-1,35 1,20-1,35 1,25-1,35
    Non-fusible facing straightener of  90 g/m2, width 90 cm)                                                   0,35
    Bias fusible tape with reinforcement stitches 5,00-5,0 5,10-5,35 5,20-5,45 5,30-5,55 5,40-5,65 5,50-5,80 5,60-5,90 5,75-6,00 5,85-6,10 5,95-6,20
    Fusible on grain tape 2,90-3,00 2,95-3,15 2,95-3,15 2,95-3,15 3,00-3,20 3,00-3,20 3,00-3,20 3,05-3,25 3,05-3,25 3,05-3,25

    Attention! We give an exact fabric consumption for a tight layout scheme of the details, without the extra seam allowances for the fitting and rough cutting. All pattern details should be arranged on an opened fabric sheet strictly on grain in one direction, each pattern piece must be cut out only once.

    Accessories:
    1. Button with the diameter of 22-25 cm - 2 pcs. (for a center closure).
    2. Button with the diameter of 12-15 cm - 8 pcs. (for sleeve slit).
    3. One pair of the attachable sleeve cap pad with the width of 10 mm.
    4. Sleeve cap pad - 1 pair (if desired).

    • Multipurpose sewing machine;
    • An iron with or without steam;
    • Regular presser foot;
    • Wooden iron;
    • Ironing desk or console table; 
    • Hand needle for basting;
    • Machine needles #80-90 for the main fabric;
    • Machine needles #70 for the lining;
    • Paper scissors;
    • Scissors for textile cutting.

  • The pattern in your order will be in two print options:

    1. For printing on A4/Letter. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4/Letter sheets, then glue the sheets, cut the pattern and you can sew! A test square for checking the A4/Letter print scale is located on the first sheet of the pattern file.

    2. For printing on a large format plotter.  A test square for checking the plotter scale is located on the pattern sheet.

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