Bra with dart, pattern №981

Sizes:

size 65A
size 65B
size 65C
size 70A
size 70B
size 70C
size 70D
size 75A
size 75B
size 75C
size 75D
size 75E
size 80A
size 80B
size 80C
size 80D
size 80E
size 80F
size 80G
size 85B
size 85C
size 85D
size 85E
size 85F
size 85G
size 90C
size 90D
size 90E
size 90F
size 90G
size 95D
size 95E
size 95F
size 95G
-

Size:

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Bra with dart pattern. Soft wireless bra. The cup features a vertical dart from the lower edge. The closure is in the centre of the back. Adjustable straps. In the сups D, E, F, G are drafted with side insert flaps.

Eases added to a pattern, cm:

Сhest circumference	65	70	75	80	85	90	95
Ease to bust circumference	0	0	0	0	0	0	0
Ease below chest circumference	-16,5	-17,2	-17,8	-18,5	-19,5	-20,5	-21,5

Garment Length Measurements, cm

Сhest circumference	65	70	75	80	85	90	95
Cup height A	15,1	15,7	16,3	16,9	-	-	-
Cup height B	16,8	17,3	18,0	18,6	19,0	-	-
Cup height C	18,4	19,0	19,6	19,7	20,4	20,8	-
Cup height D	-	20,5	20,9	21,5	22,0	22,6	23,1
Cup height E	-	-	22,7	23,1	23,8	24,2	24,9
Cup height F	-	-	-	24,9	25,3	26,0	26,7
Cup height G	-	-	-	26,5	27,1	27,8	28,5

Fabric suggestion:

Main fabric. We recommend to use knitted fabrics with the stretch factor 0,85 - 0.90. The composition of the fabric may be natural fibre (cotton), artificial fibre (viscose), blended fibre (viscose with elastane) or synthetic fibre. Opt for the fabrics with suitable hygienic properties.

For the insert flap you can use your main material or mesh with a lower stretch factor.

Amount of Fabrics (in metres):

Wide scalloped elastic (1.0-2.0 см wide), m

Сhest circumference	65	70	75	80	85	90	95
Cups A,B,C,D,E,F,G	0,55	0,60	0,65	0,70	0,75	0,80	0,85

Narrow scalloped elastic (0.8 см wide), m

Сhest circumference	65	70	75	80	85	90	95
Cup A	0,85	0,85	0,85	0,85	-	-	-
Cup B	0,85	0,85	0,85	0,85	1,00	-	-
Cup C	0,85	0,85	0,85	0,85	1,00	1,00	-
Cup D	-	0,95	0,95	0,95	1,10	1,10	1,10
Cup E	-	-	0,95	0,95	1,10	1,10	1,10
Cup F	-	-	-	1,05	1,15	1,15	1,15
Cup G	-	-	-	1,05	1,15	1,15	1,15

Option 1. Main and side insert details are from the same material

Main fabric (140 см wide), m

Сhest circumference	65	70	75	80	85	90	95
Cup A	0,25	0,25	0,25	0,25	-	-	-
Cup B	0,25	0,25	0,25	0,25	0,30	-	-
Cup C	0,25	0,25	0,25	0,25	0,30	0,30	-
Cup D	-	0,30	0,30	0,30	0,35	0,35	0,35
Cup E	-	-	0,30	0,30	0,35	0,35	0,35
Cup F	-	-	-	0,35	0,40	0,40	0,40
Cup G	-	-	-	0,35	0,40	0,40	0,40

Option 2. Main and side insert details are from different material

Main fabric (140 сm wide) - for side band and cup, m

Сhest circumference	65	70	75	80	85	90	95
Cup A	0,25	0,25	0,25	0,25	-	-	-
Cup B	0,25	0,25	0,25	0,25	0,30	-	-
Cup C	0,25	0,25	0,25	0,25	0,30	0,30	-
Cup D	-	0,30	0,30	0,30	0,35	0,35	0,35
Cup E	-	-	0,30	0,30	0,35	0,35	0,35
Cup F	-	-	-	0,35	0,40	0,40	0,40
Cup G	-	-	-	0,35	0,40	0,40	0,40

Mesh fabric (140 cm wide) - for side insert piece, m

In the сups D, E, F, G are drafted with side insert flaps.

Сhest circumference	65	70	75	80	85	90	95
Cup D	-	0,30	0,30	0,30	0,35	0,35	0,35
Cup E	-	-	0,30	0,30	0,35	0,35	0,35
Cup F	-	-	-	0,35	0,40	0,40	0,40
Cup G	-	-	-	0,35	0,40	0,40	0,40

Attention! Given exact fabric consumption can be used only when pattern details are placed on a fabric sheet close to each other. All pattern details should be arranged on an opened fabric sheet strictly on grain in one direction, each pattern piece must be cut out only once.

Garment accessories:
1. Spaghetti bra strap 1.0 - 2.0 cm wide (depending on the garment’s size) – 1.20 m.
2. Scalloped elastic tape 0.8 cm wide.
3. Scalloped elastic tape 1.0 - 2.0 cm wide.
4. Ring (corresponding to the strap size) - 2 pieces.
5. Strap adjusting slider (corresponding to the strap size) - 2 pieces.
6. Hook and eye closure with 2 or 3 rows (depending on the garment’s size) - 1 piece.

Pattern is given with seam allowances.

Detailed sewing instruction with step-by-step photos of sewing is attached to the pattern in the kit.

Degree of difficulty - "Beginner”.

The photos shows a bra with dartsewed at the GRASSER for pattern №981.

Model Uliana is wearing a size 70D. Model parameters: Bust-line: 92 cm, Waist-line: 64 cm, Hips: 97 cm, Height: 179 cm.

Model Kristina is wearing a size 80G. Model parameters: Bust-line: 115 cm, Waist-line: 89 cm, Hips: 113 cm, Height: 170 cm.

The images also shows: string panties pattern №976, cardigan on pattern №891

For sewing you will need the following equipment:

1. Multipurpose sewing machine;
2. 4 thread overlock machine;
3. An iron with or without steam;
4. Regular presser foot;
5. Wooden iron;
6. Ironing desk or console table;
7. Hand needle for basting;
8. Machine needles Stretch or Super Stretch № 70-80;
9. Paper scissors;
10. Scissors for textile cutting.

The pattern in your order will be in two print options:

1. For printing on A4/Letter. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4/Letter sheets, then glue the sheets, cut the pattern and you can sew!

A test square for checking the A4/Letter print scale is located on the first sheet of the pattern file.

2. For printing on a large format plotter.

A test square for checking the plotter scale is located on the pattern sheet.

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