Coat and jacket, pattern №785

Use the Test Square to adjust the print scale! A test square for checking the A4 scale is located on the first sheet of the A4 pattern file. The test square for checking the plotter scale is located on the pattern sheet in the plotter file.

Jacket and coat pattern. 

There is a loose fit, trapezoidal silhouette jacket from the multilayer quilted outerwear fabric (the outerwear fabric and the insulation - non-woven bulky material). The length is below the hip line. There is the sew-in placket on the center front that fastens with the six snaps. The pattern includes two options for front pockets: the single welt pockets with topstitched ends; the applied pockets with the flap at the chest area; the applied pockets with the flap at the hip area. The back is one-piece and features a horizontal yoke. The bottom of the garment has a curved shape (the back of the garment is longer than the front by 4,5cm).

The shirt type set-in sleeves are long, have one seam, and end with the turn-up cuffs that cut out like one-piece with the sleeve. The sleeve features the sleeve strap, one end of which is sewed into the seam that joins the sleeve facing and the lining, and the other end fastens to the sleeve with the snap. The shirt collar has a stand with a one snap closure. The jacket has dropped shoulders (5.5 cm down from the shoulder point). The applied pockets, pocket flaps, welts, cuffs, collar, collar stand, plackets, the sleeve strap pieces are made from the companion outerwear fabric to match. The jacket has a lining.

COAT

There is a loose fit, trapezoidal silhouette coat from the multilayer quilted outerwear fabric (the outerwear fabric and insulation - non-woven bulky material). The length is below mid-calf. There is the sew-in placket on the center front that fastens with the seven snaps. The front features the applied pockets at the hip area that goes into the side seam. The back is one-piece and features a horizontal yoke. The shirt type set-in sleeves are long, have one seam. The sleeve features the sleeve strap, one end of which is sewed into the underarm seam, and the other end secures to the sleeve with the thread chain. The shirt collar has a stand. The coat has a dropped shoulders (5,5 cm down from the shoulder point). The applied pockets, collar, collar stand, plackets, the sleeve strap pieces are made from the companion outerwear fabric to match. The coat has a lining.

General increases, laid in the pattern:

*Constructive ease (Ec)*: Bust-line: 30,0 см; Waist: 50,0 см; Hips-line: 29,0 см; Shoulders: 26,0 см.

*Ease of package (Ep)*: Bust-line: 6,0 см; Waist: 6,0 см; Hips-line: 6,0 см; Shoulders:  6,0 см.

*Ease of freedom (Ef): (Pay attention to this increase in order to estimate the garment volume!): Bust-line: 24,0 см; Waist: 44,0 см; Hips-line: 23,0 см; Shoulders: 20,0 см.

*Constructive ease (Ec) – an integral part of a constructive segment that increases or decreases the size attribute, takes into account the thickness of the garment package, the freedom between the body and clothing, fashion direction, silhouette, physiological, hygienic and dynamic requirements, and is always included in the size parameters of the finished garment.

*Ease of package (Ep) – this value takes into account the thickness of all layers of clothes material worn on a person, which consists of ease for inner package, taking into account the underlying layers at designing clothes, and an ease of the outer package (package for designing garment).

*Ec = Ep + Ef

JACKET. Finished back length along the center back, см.:  38 size: 69,6-77,6, 40 size: 69,8-77,8, 42 size: 70,0-78,0, 44 size: 70,2-78,2, 46 size:70,4-78,4, 48 size: 70,6-78,6,  50 size: 70,8-78,8, 52 size: 71,0-79,0

COAT. Finished back length along the center back seam, см.: 38 size: 122,6-138,6, 40 size: 122,8-138,8, 42 size: 123,0-139,0, 44 size: 123,2-139,2, 46 size: 123,4-139,4, 48 size: 123,6-139,6,  50 size: 123,8-139,8, 52 size: 124,0-140,0

Fabric suggestion: for this garment, we recommend outerwear puffer fabric quilted with insulation Valtherm, the insulation weight - 120 gr/m2, the fabric wide - 150cm;

the companion outerwear fabric to match the main fabric; the lining fabric - viscose, silk.

Material consumption for jacket:

Lining fabric, wide 140 cm: 38-52 size: 1,45-1,55 м

Расход материала на пальто:

Main fabric, outerwear puffer fabric quilted with insulation, wide 140 cm: 38-52 size: 2,65-2,85 м

The companion outerwear fabric, wide 140 сm: 38-52 size: 1,45-1,60 м

Lining fabric, wide 140 cm: 38-52 size: 2,75-3,05 м

Garment accessories:

20 cm diameter snap buttons: 9 pcs. (JACKET); 7 pcs. (COAT).

You can purchase all materials, needles, threads, and notions for this garment in our shop.

Pattern is given with seam allowances.

Degree of difficulty - “Advanced”

The photos shows a coat and jacket sewed at the GRASSER  for pattern №782

Model is wearing a size 42, height 176-182.  Model parameters: Bust-line: 83, waist-line: 60, Hips: 90, height 178.

The photo images also show: women’s hood, pattern №784, Bucket hat, pattern №690, Trousers, pattern №743

In the gallery under the main photo and in the video below you can see a 3D visualization - this is how the coat and jacket will look in sizes 38 and 52.

We want the work with the Grasser patterns to bring you pleasure, and the sewing process to be understandable, so a file with a very detailed sewing instruction is attached to the pattern. It covers all stages of the work on the garment, with step-by-step SEWING PHOTOS! 

Also there are detailed information of the necessary consumption of fabric, materials and accessories in the instruction.

For sewing you will need the following equipment:

• Multipurpose sewing machine;
  
• The iron with the heat – for wet-heat treatment of the lining;
• Ironing desk or console table – for wet-heat treatment of the lining;
• Two-legged machine foot, walking or Teflon machine foot (depending on the raincoat fabric type), one-legged machine foot;
• Hand needle for basting;
• Machine needles Microtex №80;
• Paper scissors;
• Scissors for textile cutting;
• Eyelet press for installing press studs, depending on the diameter.

The pattern in your order will be in two print options:

1. For printing on A4. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4 sheets, then glue the sheets, cut the pattern and you can sew!

A test square for checking the A4 print scale is located on the first sheet of the pattern file.

2. For printing on a large format plotter. Details of top for size 54 are located on 2 sheets 60*130см. Details of lining for size 54 are located on sheet 60*84см

A test square for checking the plotter scale is located on the pattern sheet.

We want the work with the Grasser patterns to bring you pleasure, and the sewing process to be understandable, so a file with a very detailed sewing instruction is attached to the pattern. It covers all stages of the work on the garment, with step-by-step SEWING PHOTOS! 

Also there are detailed information of the necessary consumption of fabric, materials and accessories in the instruction.

For sewing you will need the following equipment:

• Multipurpose sewing machine;
• An iron with or without steam;
• Regular presser foot;
• Sleeve board;
• Wooden iron;
• Ironing desk or console table;
• Hand needle for basting;
• Machine needles №90 and №100;
• Paper scissors;
• Scissors for textile cutting.

The pattern in your order will be in two print options:

1. For printing on A4. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4 sheets, then glue the sheets, cut the pattern and you can sew!

A test square for checking the A4 print scale is located on the first sheet of the pattern file.

2. For printing on a large format plotter. Details of jacket for size 52 are located on 2 sheets 129 на 60 см.  Details of jacket lining for size 52 are located on sheet 166 на 60 см.  

Details of coat for size 52 are located on 2 sheets 191 на 60 см.  Details of coat lining for size 52 are located on sheet 316 на 60 см.  

A test square for checking the plotter scale is located on the pattern sheet.